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July 12, 1999

Hawaii to Tarawa Voyage, Update #74

Day 70. Monday, 12 July 1999 0301 GMT
Wind ESE - 3. Heading 240M
Latitude: 01deg 19.218N
Longitude: 174deg 17.500E

We are now on the final approach. The wind has dropped significantly since last night but a strong current is still whisking us west and north. It is in these last 70 miles that things become critical. Right now I am letting ourselves be drawn slightly north of the 1degree 15minute North clearing line of latitude as the forecast has an ENE-E wind coming in today and tomorrow which should push us back south. But there's been no sign of a shift in wind direction yet, so I've set 1degree 20minutes North as the maximum north we go before changing course to make south again. It's a really finicky business these last few miles.

The nausea from the last two days is finally subsiding. This is a blessing as the heat inside the boat today has been extremely oppressive from lack of wind and cloud cover. My thoughts are now on the first sight of land - probably tomorrow morning some time. It will really be a sight for sore, '70 days of staring at nothing but ocean' eyes. How Tarawa makes its first impression will be interesting. After crossing the Atlantic, the south Bahamian island of Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos Islands was merely a thin ribbon of dark shade on the horizon from 10 miles away. Miami was very different: a cloud of smog and the acrid smell of fumes were first to welcome us. Hawaii was disappointing too. We were expecting to be greeted by towering volcanoes from 100 miles away. With only 10 miles to go (according to the chart) Steve and I were beginning to wonder as to the accuracy of our GPS. Then the mist suddenly cleared to reveal a very English scene: rain, lush green vegetation and a few ugly seaside hotels peering out of the gloom. Tarawa I expect will be more along the lines of Providenciales: a narrow strip of low-lying sand highlighted with palm trees. Tomorrow - I believe the last full day of the voyage - all will be revealed.

Jason Lewis,
The Moksha motor

Posted on July 12, 1999 5:51 AM