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July 20, 2000

Solomons to Australia voyage - Update #3

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Day 3. Wind SE 15-20 knots. Heading 210M

Poor April! Talk about being thrown in the deep end. From the little I've seen of the Coral Sea it's the most miserable patch of brine I've come across in Moksha so far. Ever since we rounded the western edge of Guadalcanal - Coral Sea Corner as April calls it - we've been pummeled by huge 20 footers that barge into the cockpit one after the other and widdled on from above by a seemingly endless grey sky filled with endless grey clouds. (A very different ocean to the one Chris I pedaled from Tarawa.) Consequently there is a semi-permanent reservoir of 2-3 inches of water sloshing back and forth over our feet that no sooner do I painstakingly remove fistful by fistful with our sorrow excuse for a sponge than another wave slops over the side to replace it. (Not before drenching me en route of course.) A particularly large one hit us at around three this afternoon having Moksha over at 45 degrees. Quite a wallop it was, managing to come in both sides of the cockpit at the same time. I knew this crossing wasn't going to be easy but these first few days are turning out to be a bit of an ordeal. And besides, this is no way to introduce a lady to the refined pleasures of deep water pedal boating.

Pedaling during the day in these conditions is bad enough, but night time adds a whole different set of dynamics. One of the most frightening sounds on the ocean is the roar and hiss of a 'super-wave' cresting one or two wavelengths up wind. Every so often - and there's probably a pattern in it somewhere - one, two or three extra large waves will pop up in an otherwise fairly predictable sea state. You can hear the sound of them first, then feel the pull of the water from under the boat into the leading edge of the first wave at whch point it is possible to loosely gauge the strength and mass of the super-wave and the likely consequences once it hits. But there always a daunting feeling of unknowing - whether this will be the one that flips us over or just be another uncomfortable ride like all the rest.

Both of us are still feeling a little queasy. April, after a bad night, started the day off well by managing to hold down a mug of brown rice and broth. But this afternoon she came unstuck from leaning over the side washing her hair for too long, and after a couple of heaves retreated back into the sleeping compartment. It's a miserable introduction to the ocean, but she's holding in there. Today has been better than yesterday, so we seem to be generally on the up. Another couple more and we'll be pulling faces at the 20 footers and frying chips for breakfast.

Jason

Posted on July 20, 2000 1:06 PM