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September 22, 2005
Roach Motels
DAY: 101
LOCATION: Malang, E. Java
NAUTICAL MILES KAYAKING: 849
STANDARD MILES BIKING: 180
I've just walked into an internet cafe, downtown Malang, in a downpour. I haven't seen rain since the 7th of July, but, here in the volcanic foothills of east Java, I guess rain should be expected. My first impressions of Java are quite spectacular after biking through lush, rainforested hills full of coffee plantations. And, believe me, these roads go quite aways UP! They don't call these 'push bikes' for nothing and you wouldn't believe how many people cheer you on as you ride/walk by, huffing and puffing your way to the top of these steep grades. The drivers, whether truck or motorbike, blast you with their air horns in great excitement, hollering questions and greetings as they steam by! "Hello, Missy, where you go? Where you from..." trailing off as their vehicles round the next bend.
What an engineering feat to put these roads in place and maintain them in the midst of all of this traffic. Huge bridges spanning rushing rivers far below and workers repairing sections of asphalt seem to be the order of the day. Transport trucks hauling vegetables, livestock, and bamboo poles, crowded buses, push bikes loaded with baskets of chickens, children, etc., all use these roads at the same time and in all directions! These drivers seem to have the patience of Job, constantly giving way and literally missing each other by inches.
The second day out from Banyuwangi, we found ourselves by the side of the road watching the East Java 'Tour de Java', Chris called it. A tightly packed group of international bike racers came flogging by escorted by bemos, motorbikes and support vehicles. Quite an exciting event for the local villagers, as well, as they all crowded the narrow shoulder of the road for a better look. After the racers passed, I continued on down the road, riding through the locals who were flagging the race. They began waving the flags as if I was one of the racers, then laughing hilariously! I'm sure I've been on the receiving end of many Indonesian jokes, which is a credit to their easygoing sense of humor.
The hotel last evening provided us with another interesting look. It was the only hotel in town and quite welcome after the hard earned miles of the day. However, our room was already occupied with a few unexpected guests. Mozzies buzzed the dingy light in a cloud overhead. But, the giant cockroaches took the prize as the most startling residents! A herd of them ran out from the mandi to greet us, swarming the bikes, racing over the rucksacks, and having climbing races up and down the walls. I'm sure they were competing for our attention. We even had to dislodge one who had taken up residence under Jason's bike seat! It was good to be back on the road this morning.
From Malang, we may make our way toward Agung Bromo, one of Indonesia's most spectacular sites according to the guidebook. It would be exciting to see an active volcano for the first time. In this nation of contrasts, I'm continually amazed by what I've seen and the people I've come in contact with.
The rain has quit, the sun is out, so, if logistics come together, we'll head out to find a volcano!
April
Posted on September 22, 2005 10:10 AM
Comments
Hello Chris (and the rest ofcourse),
I'm following your trip with great interest. I'm going home earlier than expected, the 27th of October, and I think you know the reason, hahaha... Hope to hear from you soon.
Regards,
Marcel Jansens
(Tropicana, Garahan, Indonesia)
Posted by: Marcel Jansens at October 6, 2005 9:02 AM
If you're going up to Bromo, then you'll want to catch a bemo from the bottom of the mountain and strap your bikes on the top. It's a real bitch of a climb.
Enjoy your writings, but could you increase the type size? I can barely read your posts. It would also help to post black type on the white background, rather than grey on white. Kinda washes out.
Your blog has been mentioned in a few other blogs recently.
Posted by: Carl Parkes at September 23, 2005 7:41 PM