« September 2007 | Main | November 2007 »
October 21, 2007
Memories of Greenwich - by Nancy Sanford
This journal entry comes quite late because it took me time to recover from my adventure in the UK and the Greenwich events to celebrate Jason’s completion of the expedition. It was a great time. It was in fact, incredible. Below are some of my memories. Nancy Sanford
-----------------
My experience started with chasing the team that had left Belgium for Dover via Calais following Jason’s unexpected early departure to cross the channel during a weather window. I arrived in Brussels from the US and after 3 trains, a ferry and a taxi ride later with what I later called ‘the grey beast’ of a wheeled suitcase, I was standing alone on a windy, cold pier in Dover at dusk with the cliffs looming ghostly behind me. I was feeling pretty lonely and very tired. But no amount of jet lag would beat me. Cell phone input couldn’t confirm it but I was sure Jason was coming. I waited and waited. It got dark. I waited. And then I gave up. I took one last look out toward the distant harbor entrance before heading back the half mile walk to the dock. But wait! There, at the far edge of the harbor entrance, were two tiny red and green lights winking close to the water and next to them, higher up, lights of another boat. It had to be them- Moksha and the chaperone boat.
I went from sad sack to ballistic in seconds. I began a mantra of ‘Just keep coming Jason, just keep coming’. After a lunatic performance of waving a white scarf that Jason later said he never saw, they came closer finally. I yelled ‘hello’ from the pier and began to run back like a maniac to the dock where I met up with the others –most of whom I hadn’t seen in years and others I met for the first time but certainly knew from journal entries. I hugged them all and Jason too and then asked permission to board Moksha whom I’d not seen since Hawaii.
Jason invited me to pedal ‘Moksha’ with him from Gravesend to Erith, about 10 miles, on the eastern end of the Thames on Thursday Oct 4th. It was a beautiful day with a beautiful sunset -and a wonderful incoming tide. Pedaling Moksha is like pedaling up a moderate hill that never ends. Once you get used to it, it seems reasonable. It’s the first 45 minutes that you wonder how they ever got across the Channel in the first place let alone across oceans. The steering was suffering a hang up but it is usually responsive - like turning a bus. Everything you need is within reach of either you or the other guy but you do have to be very mindful of the turning metal pedals that can claw down a misplaced leg. Jason boiled water for tea during our trip and we enjoyed some celebratory chocolate candy at journey’s end. I can’t thank Jason enough for the chance to pedal some distance in Moksha on the Thames. Jason said he wanted to return the favor.
What he was referring to was that in the summer of 95, during what turned out to be one of the hottest summers in the Southern US on record, Steve Smith and Jason began their way west from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida on the Atlantic coast to San Francisco, California. My ‘favor’ to them was to get 3 small pedal boats to the east side of Tampa Bay (Florida) for us to get across to St. Petersburg, about 9 miles, where I live. It was shorter distance and less of a hassle than getting there by bike and inline skates but turned out to be slow torture on the windless day under the sun –for 3 hours. I can only hope that neither Steve nor Jason remembers the deplorable heat that day on Tampa Bay.
By far, I got the better deal.
There are some Moksha maneuverings from water to land or land to water that we will remember from this time, but the trickiest by far because it had to happen then and only then with no real alternative with media live and a crowd watching, was her landing at the slipway in Greenwich.
Apart from the media jostling to capture ‘the shot’ of Jason stepping off Moksha, they call it a slipway for a reason. It’s incredible that Jason made it off without damage. However, imagine if you will, standing on slippery cobbles with cold, wet water sloshing around and a 3000 pound boat coming straight at you with only ‘Roman rollers’ (4 fence posts) to defend her keel against the stones. The rollers must roll her up the slipway ramp to the reach of a crane. We also had to keep her even keeled, as in from rocking to either side potentially squooshing crew on either side backed by narrow concrete walls. Chris Tipper deserves credit for executing the idea that I, prior to Moksha’s arrival, merely accepted out of hand as being entirely do-able. Standing there at water’s edge, at the moment of her arrival, her bow scraping Greenwich cobbles for the first time, I admit my confidence wavered. But, the fence posts got pushed into place and began to roll. I looked at Moksha as she lumbering toward us, unsteadied by the waves of wakes from nearby media boats and quietly said “Come home”, and she did. I know she would have come without my invitation, but she’d been so good for so long it was time for her to just do what she had to do. We just helped. Maybe it wasn’t pretty, but it worked.
Now strapped and held 15 feet overhead by a crane, Moksha had to be rotated mid air in close quarters surrounded by media and a crowd in order to be placed on the trolley that would carry her over the Meridian. ‘Close quarters’ is an understatement. Inches only between the buildings.
My notebook and photo album don’t compare to the ‘movies’ of memories I keep playing over in my head. It’s all too big to really put into words. I played a very minor part in the expedition’s effort through the years, but know that the mission of the expedition to educate on the environment, promote world citizenship, and to know your dreams and follow them impacted my life forever. I’ve done things I never would have done without the experience. I think perhaps now I have a soul that is my true home port and is the only way I will ever find my way away.
Thanks, Jason. I really did get the better deal.
Nancy
Pedal power, the pace for the human race.
Posted at 7:21 PM
October 6, 2007
Circumnavigation Complete!
LOCATION: Greenwich, England
At 12.24pm yesterday afternoon Jason Lewis, pedal boat Moksha and the Expedition 360 team crossed the Greenwich Meridian Line at the Royal Obseratory in East London, signfifying the completion of the 13 year expedition. The world has now been circumnavigated using only human power. (Guidelines issued by Explorers Web)
A big thanks to all of you who helped make the dream come true!
Click here for full size image.
** MOKSHA FUND **
Huge thanks to those of you who have pledged towards the costs of moving Moksha from Antwerp to Ostend ($850), the hire of a cross channel support boat ($1960) and a crane on the day of the completion ($950)
> Total to raise: $3,750
> Total raised to date: $2,445
> Still to raise: $1,305
You can make pledges here. Or email contact@expedition360.com
Sincerest thanks to the following for your pledges -
Darcia Wasarab-Rolland - $300
Suzanne Geller - $50
meredith schlegel - $50
Miroslav Novakovic - $110
Jeremy Gruse - $50
Terry Mason - $100
Shelly Colletti - $250
Sebastian Best - $100
Elizabeth Hunt - $75
A S E Feakes - $40
Sebastian Best - $100
Michael Appleby - $20
The Rollers - $200
Karl Sweeney - $100
Susan Schendowich - $50
Patrick Buckler - $50
Neil Reypert - $100
Gretchin Lair - $50
Tim Murfitt - $50
Samantha Carter - $50
Merlin & Carrie Lewis - $200
Jane Koca & John Caldwell - $100
Anonymous - $250
Posted at 11:16 AM
October 5, 2007
Up the Thames
LOCATION: The River Thames, England
SEE WHERE WE ARE!
Longitude: N:51deg.08'
Latitude: E: 001deg.19'
Kms from Istanbul: 3,236.50
Yesterday Nancy Sanford and I pedaled from Gravesend into the lower reaches of the Thames, signaling the start of the final furlong to Greenwich. The sun broke through after midday and it turned into a glorious autumn afternoon, perfect weather to be messing around in a boat on the water in England. There was more than just a hint of symbolism slipping up the river past the bustling activity of east London docklands in much the same way as ships returning from the far east laden with spices and other oriental treasures would have done back in the golden age of sail.
At the time of writing Moksha is moored outside the Erith Yacht Club, waiting for the next flood tide to assist the penultimate 'hop' up to the Greenwich Yacht Club. We rolled up just before dark last night completely unannounced. The club commodore and other club members didn't bat an eye, instead making us all feel instantly welcome to share their clubhouse for the evening - a converted Norwegian roll-on roll-off car ferry (the first of it's kind) moored alongside the river bank. We completely lucked out with it being bar night, and several club members offered their yachts for support team members to sleep on. What a wonderful extension of hospitality on home turf!
Earlier yesterday the team worked all through the night putting the 1868 names of supporters back on the side of the boat while she was in dry dock. Moksha now looks resplendent with her new figurehead that Eilbhe finished in the nick of time and the vinyl names in place. She still looks like she's been around the world, but a little spruce-up around the edges will allow her a slightly more dignified entry in the public eye tomorrow.
A huge thanks also to the members of the Port of London Authority (PLA) who have been absolutely fantastic, accommodating our last minute plans and giving us the red carpet treatment for the final run into London.
jason
CIRCUMNAVIGATION COMPLETION DETAILS
Date & Time: Saturday 6th October, 2007 at 11.30 am.
Location: The Royal Observatory, (Flamsteed House), Greenwich Park, London, SE10 9NF. t: +44 (0)20 8858 4422
All are invited. Look forward to seeing you there!
Expedition 360 support team
** MOKSHA SHIPPING ANTWERP to OOSTENDE **
Huge thanks to those of you who have pledged towards the shipping of Moksha to Ostend from Antwerp. The response has been so successful we now have $350 surplus which we will put towards the hire of the crane to pull Moksha out of the Thames on the morning of the 6th (475 pounds sterling).
You can make pledges here. Or email contact@expedition360.com
Sincerest thanks to the following for your pledges -
Elizabeth Hunt - $75
A S E Feakes - $40
Sebastian Best - $100
Michael Appleby - $20
The Rollers - $200
Karl Sweeney - $100
Susan Schendowich - $50
Patrick Buckler - $50
Neil Reypert - $100
Gretchin Lair - $50
Tim Murfitt - $50
Samantha Carter - $50
Merlin & Carrie Lewis - $200
Jane Koca & John Caldwell - $100
Anonymous - $250
> Total to raise: $925
> Total raised to date: $1,435
> Surplus towards crane hire: $585
> Crane hire: $998.50
> Still to raise: 413.50
Posted at 2:06 PM
October 2, 2007
North to the Thames
LOCATION: Ramsgate, England
SEE WHERE WE ARE!
Longitude: N:51deg.08'
Latitude: E: 001deg.19'
Kms from Istanbul: 3,236.50
The weather was dreadful yesterday - the wind blowing up to 30 knots off the White Cliffs of Dover - preventing Moksha from leaving the shelter of the harbour. But earlier today the conditions improved enough for Sher and I to leave after high water, taking advantage of the ebb tide to help push us the 14 nautical miles up to Ramsgate at a blistering 4 knots.
We arrived just before dark. Chris, Kenny, Nancy (Sanford) and Eilbhe were in position with the trailer on the slipway ready to pull Moksha out of the water. First thing in the morning we'll start adding the names of 1,868 supporters of the expedition who will have their names in vinyl lettering on Moksha's hull forever. These names arrived from the printers in India at the 11th hour just as we were pulling Moksha out of the water. It'll be good to have them all on board for the finish.
Eilbhe will also have time to finish off the new figurehead. The boat will look quite dashing for her arrival. Then Thursday morning the expedition continues up the coast to Gravesend, this time using the flood tide to start the final run up the River Thames to Greenwich.
** MOKSHA SHIPPING ANTWERP to OOSTENDE **
Huge thanks to those of you who have pledged towards the shipping of Moksha to Ostend from Antwerp. The response has been so successful we have $350 surplus which we will put towards the hire of the crane to pull Moksha out of the Thames on the morning of the 6th (475 pounds sterling).
You can make pledges here. Or email contact@expedition360.com
Sincerest thanks to the following for your pledges -
A S E Feakes - $40
Sebastian Best - $100
Michael Appleby - $20
The Rollers - $200
Karl Sweeney - $100
Susan Schendowich - $50
Patrick Buckler - $50
Neil Reypert - $100
Gretchin Lair - $50
Tim Murfitt - $50
Samantha Carter - $50
Merlin & Carrie Lewis - $200
Jane Koca & John Caldwell - $100
Anonymous - $250
> Total to raise: $850
> Total raised to date: $1,360
> Total still to raise: $0
> Surplus towards crane hire: $510
> Crane hire: $998.50
> Still to raise: 488.50
Posted at 11:46 PM
October 1, 2007
Back on the Island!
LOCATION: Dover, England
SEE WHERE WE ARE!
Longitude: N:51deg.08'
Latitude: E: 001deg.19'
Kms from Istanbul: 3,213
Moksha slipped into Dover harbour yesterday evening, successfully avoiding being apprehended by the French authorities and completing a relatively smooth crossing from France in a little under 8 hours. The pearly white cliffs of Dover provided a beacon to which to pedal towards in the fading light, symbolising the long awaited return to the green isle of England for Expedition 360. The circle is now almost closed.
The departure from the beach at Cap Gris Nez didn't go so smoothly however, and we were VERY lucky launching Moksha in an unorthodox style never attempted before; reversing her on a trailer into the surf and pushing her out into deeper water before being wrecked onto the 'Dragon Teeth Rocks', just 100 metres apart either side of the beach. I still am in awe that we managed to pull it off at all without serious harm to either the boat or people. The day was saved by some incredibly nice locals from the village of Framzelle. At 11.30am, with just 30 minutes to catch the tide window, we still hadn't managed to find someone with a tractor to take Moksha plus trailer down to the beach for launching. 'Jean Calais' plus family and friends just happened to passing by from collecting cockles and mussels on the beach at low tide and enquired what this strange craft was. 20 minutes later Jean was down with his tractor and an assorted posse of helpers waded out into the surf to assist with launching.
The big worry was pushing Moksha around 180 degrees in the heavy surf to face the rollers and then push her out into water deep enough to fit the rudder, centre board and pedal unit - before being put onto the rocks. I almost made the call to abandon for the day and try for a deep water launching the following day in Calais. Losing Moksha would potentially jeopardize the successful completion of the circumnavigation. But on the flip side delaying for a day would seriously compromise the weather window. It was actually a prompt from the villagers that swung the decision. 'We know this water -you might make it if you go NOW'.
15 extremely chaotic and adrenaline pumping minutes later Chris and I found ourselves pedaling out through the surf into deeper water, the boat half full of water, but afloat and still operable. What a rush!! Pulling the whiskers of fate and making borderline decisions like this AND getting away with it is extremely exhilarating. But things could well have gone the other way.
Moksha was now in the water and in one piece. But in the confusion Kenny and Eilbhe, who we were going to ferry out to the waiting support vessel lying out in deeper water, were still stranded in the surf. I then witnessed one of the most incredible displays of bravery and gusto from our cameraman Kenny Brown - swimming 200 metres through the surf with his camera gear in a dry bag on his back. Eilbhe intercepted him in a kayak further out and the illustrious two managed to make it to the support boat intact. What a mad start to the crossing!
Chris Tipper
In a few minutes Sher and I leave Dover on the ebb tide to pedal around to Ramsgate, 14 miles around the corner to the northeast. More developments posted later today.
jason
Chris looking out past the white cliffs of Dover
** MOKSHA SHIPPING ANTWERP to OOSTENDE **
Huge thanks to those of you who have pledged towards the shipping of Moksha to Ostend from Antwerp. The response has been so successful we have $350 surplus which we will put towards the hire of the crane to pull Moksha out of the Thames on the morning of the 6th (475 pounds sterling).
You can make pledges here. Or email contact@expedition360.com
Sincerest thanks to the following for your pledges -
The Rollers - $200
Karl Sweeney - $100
Susan Schendowich - $50
Patrick Buckler - $50
Neil Reypert - $100
Gretchin Lair - $50
Tim Murfitt - $50
Samantha Carter - $50
Merlin & Carrie Lewis - $200
Jane Koca & John Caldwell - $100
Anonymous - $250
> Total to raise: $850
> Total raised to date: $1200
> Total still to raise: $0
> Surplus towards crane hire: $350
> Crane hire: $998.50
> Still to raise: 650
Posted at 11:23 AM